GC-MS Analysis with In Situ Derivatization for Managing Toxic Oxidative Hair Dye Ingredients in Hair Products

Hair care products that have oxidative hair dye ingredients have been widely used to permanently change hair color for the characteristic and younger appearance of people and/or their companion animals. In the European Union and the Republic of Korea, these ingredients have been carefully used or prohibited for cosmetic products according to their genotoxic potential. There is a growing demand for reliable quantification methods to monitor oxidative hair dye ingredients in hair care products. However, accurately quantifying oxidative dyes in cosmetic samples is challenging due to their high reactivity and chemical instability under both basic and ambient conditions. For this reason, for the quantification methods, elaborate sample preparation procedures should be accompanied by chemical derivatization to avoid chemical reactions between hair dye ingredients, before instrumental analysis. Therefore, this study utilized a gas chromatography–mass spectrometry (GC-MS) method combined with in situ chemical derivatization to quantify 26 oxidative hair dye ingredients in hair care products. In situ derivatization using acetic anhydride provided the characteristic [M-CH₂CO]⁺ ions at m/z (M-42), produced by the loss of a ketene from the hair dye ingredient derivatives. These characteristic ions can be used to establish a selective ion monitoring (SIM) mode of GC-MS. The established method was successfully applied to hair dye products (n = 13) and hair coloring shampoos (n = 12). Most products contained unintended hair dye ingredients including catechol without labeling. It was cautiously speculated that these unintended hair dye ingredients might be caused by biodegradation due to various enzymes in natural product extracts. This study presents a reliable GC-MS method with in situ derivatization to quantify 26 oxidative hair dye ingredients in hair care products, addressing challenges related to their chemical instability. This method is crucial for public health and regulatory compliance.